Château Fombrauge 2023

Less influenced by oak than before, clear fruit, floral aromas; densely built, noticeable tannins, good acidity, the structure supports the red fruit, however drying with a bitter note on the finish.

Aged for 16 months in 35% new oak, this Merlot-dominated wine shows a bright, fresh nose with red and blackberry fruit, both brambly and rich on the palate. Made from grapes harvested between 14 September and 10 October—a long harvest—and cropped at 49 hectolitres per hectare, the wine successfully balances the fairly high alcohol of nearly 15% with a low pH of 3.54. Tasted twice with similar results.

The 2023 Fombrauge has a perfumed bouquet with mulberry, raspberry and light minty scents hovering in the background. The oak here is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine line of acidity, taut and fresh, with a controlled and focused finish. Gentle grip overall, this is a well-made Fombrauge that should age well in bottle.

Black cherries, flowers, chocolate-covered plums, smoke, espresso, licorice, and cherries create the perfume. The fruits are ripe, sweet, forward, and juicy with touches of chocolate, black raspberries, and cherries on the mid-palate and in the finish. This should offer pleasure almost on release. The wine blends 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Drink from 2027–2040. 92–94 pts.

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections. Fresh cherries, dark forest berries, delicately floral, subtle fine oak spice, inviting bouquet. Medium complexity, red fruit nuances, fine tannins, good freshness, mineral and salty finish, an elegant food wine with good ageing potential.

Deep ruby, blackberry and raspberry fruits, cocoa bean, espresso, juicy and intensely spicy, needs more nuance to throw the grilled oak into relief.

Score: 86–88. Like a Chinese lacquer screen, the nose reveals aromas of stewed fruit and floral scents. On the palate, this is a powerful, muscular wine with intense oaky notes.

The nose is fruity, indulgent, elegant and precise, offering a certain focused concentration and a textured edge. It reveals notes of crushed blackberry and ripe wild strawberry, and more subtly star anise, with touches of lily and nutmeg and fine hints of fresh blond tobacco. The palate is nicely juicy and fruity, with minerality, a fresh/tangy line, fine tension, silkiness, indulgence and a certain delicacy. It shows notes of fleshy/juicy blackberry and pulpy/juicy blackcurrant and, more lightly, pulpy/juicy raspberry, combined with fine touches of flowers, star anise, sweet blond tobacco and a discreet hint of sweet pepper. Good length. The tannins are plush and sapid.

A mix of gently mulled red and black currant fruit glides through with grace, as black tea, singed anise and warm earth hints filter through on the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2027 through 2036. 16,631 cases made.

92-94. Barrel Sample. This wine has all the potential hallmarks of opulence. A powerful black-fruit aroma and layers of firm tannins reveal the density of the wine. The aftertaste brings balance from black-currant flavors.