Louis Roederer : Cristal Vinothèque Rosé 2002

This is a light tawny-gold hue in the glass, with a gossamer feel to the mouthwatering acidity. It’s a crystalline lattice supporting flavors of dried cherry and blood orange pâte de fruits alongside savory white truffle and grilled macadamia nut, plus notes of oyster shell, smoke and saffron. Softly effervescent and creamy, with a long, long finish. Sip and savor this beauty. Drink now through 2045.

Disgorged in 2019 using Lécaillon's system of 'dynamic riddling' which he claims is unique. I think he said it involved storing the bottles in wooden crates and riddling every five years, but this was at the end of a long lunch after an even longer (Wine Society) tasting. For their Vinothèque releases they don't want any notes of oxidation and they measure the amino acids every year. Magnum. Extraordinarily tight and fresh – a new expression of a famous year. Vindication of the Vinothèque release programme? (JR)