Henriot : Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1998

Like finely woven silk, this offers beautiful texture, sublime balance and integration. Rich apple pastry, candied orange peel, crystallized honey and dried apricot flavors are layered with hints of smoke, sea salt and toasted nut. Lovely, with a fresh, persistent finish. Drink now through 2028. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

(a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, all from grand cru vineyards; L1112320111): Light, bright gold. Poached pear, flowers, honey and toasty lees on the smoky, spice-accented nose. Broad and juicy, offering open-knit orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by tangy acidity. Smooth, sappy and smoky on the finish, which shows excellent clarity and closing bite. Tighter than the outstanding 1996 version and missing just a bit of that wine's heft.

Brioche-like, with candied fruit aromas, this is an ultra-flavorful Champagne of great finesse.