Clos Fourtet 2009

After tasting it three times from bottle, I am convinced this prodigious wine is one of the greatest young Bordeaux I have ever tasted. Inky blue/purple with notes of camphor, forest floor, blackberry, cassis, sweet cherries, licorice, the wine has stunning aromatics, unctuous texture and an almost inky concentration, but without any hard edges. With considerable tannin and just enough acidity to provide definition, this wine transcends even its premier grand cru classe terroir. It is certainly the finest Clos Fourtet ever produced. Give it 5-7 years of cellaring to allow some of its baby fat to fall away. There is certainly enough structure underneath to keep for 30-50 years. Bravo! From my barrel score of 95-98, I suppose I should have seen this perfect score coming, particularly considering what proprietor Philippe Cuvelier and estate manager Tony Ballu have accomplished over the last decade. This is one of the great terroirs of St.-Emilion, nearly 50 acres high on the clay beds and deep limestone plateau of the region, just a stone’s throw from the luxury hotel and restaurant Hostellerie de Plaisance. Yields were moderate at 34 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend is 88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual) and the rest Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 80% new oak.

Rather ripe, but nicely framed by singed apple wood, which keeps the core of damson plum, black currant and black cherry flavors at bay for now. Licorice root and black tea notes undercut the finish, which is on the grippy side. This opens steadily in the glass, too. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2014 through 2027. 3,750 cases made.

At one full degree of alcohol more than the 2003 (14.5), the 2009 exudes a polished nose with cool fruit, wild strawberry and hawthorn. It is not hot in any way. Indeed, the palate has a bit of steeliness, but in a good way: more poised and balanced than the 'hard metal' of the 2011. While delicious today (try with mushroom and sage stuffed hen and a truffle cream sauce), give it another 5-10 years for more appealing tertiary aspects. Long finish. 3.71pH.

Tons of black fruit, plenty of smoke and some balsamic character make a dramatic statement on the nose. On the palate there's rather sweet fruit at the front, then major tannins come through at the finish that still need time to fully resolve. Better after 2022. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)

The perfume reminds me of flowers at the beach, due to its marine-influenced scent. Rich, opulent, lush layers of sweet, ripe, juicy black cherries, with accents of blueberries laced with licorice, chocolate and salt go on and on. This is a sensuous, hedonistic treat for your senses. Drink from 2025–2050.

Dark ruby in colour with purple reflections and subtle brightening on the rim. On the nose, aromas of fine blackberry confit, black cherry, a touch of nougat, underlaid with a hint of red berries and candied orange zest. The palate is juicy, sweetly textured, mineral, and complex, with delicate leafy savouriness and notes of ripe plum on the long saline finish. Individual, already well matured with the potential for further ageing.

The greatest Clos Fourtet I’ve ever tasted, eclipsing the heavenly 2005 and 2015, the 2009 Clos Fourtet offers an insane bouquet of black cherry and black currant fruits as well as loads of smoked tobacco, chocolate, licorice, and toasted spices. It shows a touch of classic limestone-influenced white truffle with time in the glass and is as majestic as they come on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a seamless texture, beautiful tannins, and a monster of a finish. A blend of 88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Cabernet Franc brought up in 80% new French oak, this magical Saint-Emilion can be enjoyed any time over the coming 30-40 years.

Deep purple. Fine, sweet-berry bouquet with raspberries and cherries, topped by a milky sheen. On the palate, lovely substance and elegant tannins, a hint of café au lait, grand, with finesse and class, well balanced, yet somehow unspectacular.

Deep purple, dense at the core, with a garnet sheen at the rim. Fine, sweet-berry bouquet of raspberries and cherries, with a milky shimmer above. On the palate, lovely texture and elegant tannins, a touch of café au lait, well balanced but, despite its indicated grandeur, somehow unspectacular. The finesse and class are there, though.

Slim, fruity, herbal bouquet with red berries and wood. Medium-bodied, slender palate with light fruit, dry tannins, wiry structure, and subtle aromatics. Long, sweet, dry finish. 17/20 2017 - 2026

Welcoming aromatics, fully melted tannins even on the opening beats coupled with fresh juicy plum fruits and a limestone bite. This is delicious, tobacco, baking spice, cinnamon, cumin, incense, rosebuds and blackberry fruits. High quality, and totally ready to sink right in. 80% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

In the same spherical style as Canon, but with more chewiness and sweet notes on the entry. Clos Fourtet finishes with powdery, slightly dry tannins and cocoa and ferrous nuances.

Supple and dense, compact, tight, long, vertical, superb finish.

The 2009 surprises with a bouquet that first reveals notes of blackcurrant! These are complemented by refreshing peppermint notes and a chalky touch. Thank you, limestone! The wine is fine, creamy, harmonious, and carried by smooth tannins that even have some grip. A wine with character, charm, and great prospects… but it might be drunk before then!

Logo on the capsule: AL Dark red color, intense and very evolved. A medium-intensity nose, whose very ripe fruit brings it closer to the creamy expression of Pomerol. Delicate on the attack, full-bodied yet tender, the wine develops with savory, fragrant, ever-caressing nuances, finishing of normal length with perfectly integrated tannins. Seems more ready than others.

95-97 Barrel sample. Black, dense fruits, licorice and dark chocolate over prunes and ripe figs. This is a spicy wine, with the acidity of the fruit forming a great balancing counterweight. Very complete.