Château Haut-Brion 2020

Combines power and breed, polish and fullness, thanks to its impressive tannic backbone, with notable juiciness, depth, and length; a characterful Haut-Brion.

Concentrated and persistent. This remains quite tight overall with clear power, drive and generosity of ripe blackcurrants, fragrant black cherries, blueberries, liquorice, cocoa powder, clove and wet stone. The acidity and oak keep all the elements very centered, but there’s no denying this is a statuesque wine that will need time to come around. Vivid, full and well framed.

Aromas of blackberry, licorice, tile, stone and mocha. Tobacco and cigar, too. They follow through to a full body with ultra-fine tannins that go on and on. Sophisticated ripe fruit at the center of the palate with brightness. Tangerines on the finish. Very supple and savory at the end, in a classy way. Reminds me of the 1998. Already so attractive, but it will reward you much more after 2028.

The 2020 Haut-Brion has a well-defined, quite cerebral nose—a mélange of red and black fruit, black olive, subtle estuarine scents. The oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent, almost viscous, very concentrated entry. There's enormous depth here, and though very ripe on the finish, it's perfectly controlled and focused. To use a phrase that I occasionally roll out...controlled decadence. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Dark ruby garnet, purple reflections, deep core, delicate rim brightening. Dark wild berries, a touch of noble wood, ripe cherries, delicate floral nuances of candied purple fruit, sweet tobacco, very inviting bouquet. Complex, juicy, red berry texture, well-integrated, ripe tannins, fine sweetness on the finish, already seems very at peace with itself, great length, a great food companion, secure future. (2025-2065).

Pure, stony and floral with fine intensity, ripe black currant, dark cherry, fine tobacco, sage and discreet oak underneath. Very powerful with a bright freshness, dense fruit and plenty of super-fine tannin, impressive length and nuance, should become absolutely tremendous.

I finished my trip through Bordeaux with the 2020 Château Haut-Brion, and it was certainly a fitting cap to the trip. Revealing a deep ruby/plum hue, the 2020 exhibits extraordinary aromatics of ripe black fruits, scorched earth, cold fireplace, and acacia flowers. An absolute blockbuster on the palate, this structured, full-bodied, massively concentrated Pessac builds incrementally, with ultra-fine tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great, great finish. Richer and more concentrated than both the 2018 and 2019 (there are some similarities to 2010), this is a legend in the making. The blend is 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Cabernet Franc, all of which will spend 15–18 months in 77% new French oak. Hide bottles for a decade, and it should evolve for 50–75 years.

Royal bouquet, wild cherry, tarragon, rosewood and a noble hint of cassis. On the second approach, raspberry purée, beeswax and violet perfume. On the complex palate, with a texture like velvet and silk, a cocoa-like tannic frame, magical breed and a perfectly shaped body. In the catapult-like finish, dark-berry contours, a refined salty note, dark graphite, deep, terroir-driven spice. This Pessac already revealed its true greatness as a barrel sample, now confirmed in the bottle. The highest score is the only logical outcome.

Kunz barrel sample 2021: sensational bouquet—concentrated, complex, fresher, creamy—prunes, grains, dark chocolate, graphite, dark tobacco. Sensational palate: concentrated, multi-layered, finely powerful, with a tightly interwoven, superb structure; concentrated, varied, sweet aromatics; plenty of fine tannins; dense, delicate fruit; an explosive, powerful, full finish with many lingering flavors.

Concentrated, complex, fresh, creamy, sensational bouquet: prunes, grains, dark chocolate, graphite, dark tobacco. A concentrated, multi-layered, finely powerful, sensational palate with a densely interwoven, superb structure; concentrated, varied, sweet aromatics; plenty of fine tannins; dense, refined fruit; an explosive, powerful, full finish with lots of lingering aromas. 20/20 2028 - 2060

Where usually Haut-Brion feels rooted in the Left Bank, this is almost Pomerol in its fleshy fruits. Strikingly powerful layers of plum, damson, cocoa, crushed rocks, bitter black chocolate. Easy to see the brilliance of this wine, one to stand back and admire, wait for those muscular tannins and fresh acidities to melt together over the next few decades. Harvest from 7th to 29th September, 77% new oak.

The 2020 Haut Brion is a blend of 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17.5% Cabernet Franc, with a pH of 3.78. Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with profound blackcurrant cordial, baked plums, and boysenberry preserves notes, leading to an undercurrent of graphite, iron ore, black truffles, and wood smoke, plus a hint of cardamom. The full-bodied palate is tightly knit with black fruit and mineral layers, supported by a rock-solid backbone of grainy tannins and seamless acidity, finishing long and savory.

97-98

A nose of forest fruits haloed by a hint of aloe vera, with peppery notes unfolding over a blooming peony. Classic aromas of blackcurrant and violet, and a beautifully balanced palate. A purity and freshness more spontaneous than its counterpart La Mission, with supple, charcoal-edged tannins on the finish to remind you this is a wine that will reward patience for several decades…

In the side-by-side race between Mission and Haut-Brion, which belong to the same family and are therefore more like brothers than enemies, the contest is often tight. The question is no longer really which is better, but which expresses itself most meaningfully, true to its nature and personality. In this exercise, Haut-Brion seems closer to what we know of it. Its keen sense of detail appears from the very first aromas, while the palate immediately displays remarkable breadth, framed by its tannic structure and a fine bitterness that underpins the aromatic expression on the finish. An imposing wine that clearly claims great ageing potential. This is a Haut-Brion that is more linear than spherical, with imposing aromatic persistence. It’s truly great, and all the signs point to a score that will sooner or later reach three digits!

The nose is fruity, fresh, taut, racy and currently a little tight (needs time). It reveals notes of crushed blackberry, crushed strawberry and, more subtly, cornflower/violet, combined with touches of creamy small fruits (blue and red), as well as hints of licorice stick, salinity and a fine, almost eucalyptus-like note. The palate is fruity and offers minerality, juiciness, a slight creaminess, a lovely delicate glycerol feel, an enveloping character, a certain straightness without austerity yet with finesse, appealing mineral freshness, and a discreetly tight grain. A lovely saline character. Plenty of richness, yet in “lightness” and delicacy. On the palate, this wine shows notes of creamy blackberry, pulpy blackcurrant and, more delicately, raspberry/bright small red berries, combined with touches of violet, cornflower, licorice stick, as well as fine hints of salinity, racy minerality and a discreet crystalline note. The tannins are supple and elegant. Very nice tang!

Concentrated, deep, creamy, supple, long, and intense, the wine is packed with notes of flowers, spice, chocolate, black cherries, plums, porcini, tobacco leaf, and white pepper. On the palate, there is a minor degree of heat, but the ample layers of perfectly ripe, sweet, rich fruit are really what you notice as they roll onto your tongue and coat your palate. The wine has serious depth of flavor, length, and endless waves of black and dark red fruits, finishing with a touch of chalky, crushed rocks on the endnote. The blend is 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 17.5% Cabernet Franc, 15% ABV. Drink from 2030–2060.

97–99. Barrel Sample. The concentration and structural density of this wine is seriously impressive. The tannins are currently a prominent part of the wine, but the promise of the black fruits and the potential of the sumptuous texture are equally important. The wine will need many years.