Château d'Yquem 1979

This is an immensely attractive Yquem, yet it seems to be missing something. Light golden, with Yquem's typically oaky, spicy, buttery, ripe bouquet, it is only slightly more reserved than usual. On the palate, this full-bodied wine is intense and well balanced, but falls just a trifle short in the finish. The 1979 Yquem is not as powerful or as rich as this wine can be in the top vintages. Only 40% of the crop was retained. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 12/90.

Lovely and elegant in style, this well-balanced Yquem seduces with tropical fruit, dried apricot and creamy-smooth flavors. Medium-bodied, it rests softly on the palate, then kicks in with a persistent finish. — Yquem vertical. Drink now through 2020.

The 1979 Yquem is a vintage I had not encountered for many years. It was a late harvest that commenced on October 15, and botrytis took a long time to develop, the picking not finishing until November 29. Yields were very low. This has a backward nose with scents of dried honey, barley sugar and an adhesive note. The palate is better than the aromatics—a dainty Yquem, fresh and lively with a keen thread of acidity. Light in body, it closes with a tangy, rather short finish. This is in graceful decline. Tasted at the château.

This was botrytis light. Golden honey color, nose of apricots, vanilla and guava. Good mouth feel but lacks the weight of a strong vintage. On the palate, some honeyed orange and pineapple notes. A good , fully mature Yquem but certainly not great.

1990, drunk at lunch with Michel Délon (Léoville-Las-Cases): quince presence. However, a sticky, almost overloaded wine lacking acidity; too rich, with sweetness unfortunately clearly dominating. Yquem tasting 1992: buttery, lots of glycerin, hay, dried flowers; struggles to open up. On the palate: apricot jam, light fruits, pectin, lots of richness, unfortunately a little short on acidity. 98: very pale yellow with orange reflections. Pimpernel and mirabelle bouquet; comes across fresh and peppery, with grated lemon zest on the nose. Oily, rich palate flow, slight bitterness in the extract, a heavy, overly sweet finish. (15/20). 11: right at the start, really only for a few nice seconds, there was some botrytis and the Yquem perfume, but then it turned heavy-sweet and slightly grassy on the nose too. On the palate, quite pretty, but also dull. I didn’t finish it — even though Yquem was on the label.

Coppery colour with green highlights. Subtle nose. A hint of caramel, but also rubber. Light, fruity and short on the palate. Should have been drunk earlier.