Louis Roederer : Cristal Rosé 2008

Like fine china, this graceful rosé Champagne is all about delicacy paired with form. Vibrant acidity provides well-honed structure, fleshed out by the detailed flavor range of white cherry, slivered almond, candied ginger, pink grapefruit pith and spring blossom as this rides the satiny mousse. Minerally smoke and chalk notes echo on the finish. Drink now through 2030.

Interestingly released after the softer 2009 version of this wine, this 2008 vintage is beautifully balanced between crisp fruit and ripe maturity. With its red fruits still in place, it also has a toasty yeasty edge that is sophisticated and enticing. It is a superb wine, delicious to drink now although because of the quality of the vintage it will age for many more years, certainly into the 2020s.

2008 is a lightning bolt for Cristal Rosé, true to the year's stunning acidity and briskness. Accordingly it still feels on the ascent. With a firm, serious character of dried strawberry, red apple and red cherry the fragrance is all there, backed up with a perfectly subtle almond sponge richness. But this vintage will gain its third dimension with long, long ageing – especially in magnum. For now, even the 2013 is more resolved.

Super fresh with all the DNA of the regular ‘08 Cristal. It heads on a chalky, restrained tangent of delicately spiced cherries with fine white pepper and crushed stones. The palate has a thread of silky, smooth pinot flesh that counterbalances the acidity of the chardonnay. Superb textural build, fine layers adding weight through the finish. Super long, fine and fresh red cherries, wrapped in super tight yet silky acidity. Drink in 2025.

From a growing season as cool as 2013 but with the added advantage of age. 2008 was Roederer's first year they were 100% certified organic. (They now have 136 ha certified.) Dosage 8 g/l. Magnum. Pale pink and super-flirtatious on the nose. Very pretty indeed – beautiful balance. Really lively and intriguingly layered. Amazing persistence. (JR)

Mineral, silky, finely detailed bouquet with notes of raspberry blossom, chalk and a delicate yeasty touch. The palate is dense, refined and fresh, with a delicate structure, very fine mousse, intense aromatics, gently creamy fruit and a long, fresh finish. 19/20 drink - 2034

The rosé is no exception. Powerful and tannic, it will also need a few years to soften and fully reveal itself.