Chartogne-Taillet : Sainte Anne 2023

A mouth-filling texture and slightly sweet fruit flavors make this soft and easygoing in style. Drink now.

Dark, rich and sensuous, this is a ripe Champagne, boasting pear and apricot flavors. Although the aftertaste appears dry, the richness gives it a very sumptuous mouthfeel, leaving a long, full aftertaste.

Even parts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir naturally fermented in a combination of stainless steel and wood, this has a beautifully pure and fresh nose with almonds, brioche, lemon, chalky stony aromas, light rose, vanilla and strawberry. Beautifully nuanced and detailed palate with a super fine thread of acidity that fuses perfectly ripe fruit that is coated in a sheen of very smooth polished tannins. Delicate, seamless and long, crisp apple finish. Drink now.

Alexandre Chartogne succeeded his parents in 2006 at this 14-ha (35-acre) domaine. He is at pains to point out the grand historical reputation of the vines of Merfy on the Massif de St-Thierry north of Reims, where there is a deep layer of glacial debris and sandy clay over the chalk. He cultivates this to drive vine roots deeper and uses cover crops to help devigorate vines and keep yields moderate. His fermentations involve wood, concrete ‘eggs’, earthenware vats as well as steel tanks and he makes a range of single-vineyard wines, apart from the entry-level Cuvée Ste-Anne NV. This is 55% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier. Base (60%) 2016 and 40% from 2015. Deliberately made with a slightly reduced mousse pressure. Disgorged late 2018. Dosage 5.5 g/l. Mild but well balanced on the nose. Non-dramatic but well integrated and not austere. It may have been made with deliberately lower pressure but I still find the mousse notably mouth-filling. Clean and neat on the end. May well be GV even if no transports of delight – a little too astringent to deliver them. (JR)

Apple, toffee and maple syrup on the nose. A creamy, smooth midweight, with fresh fruit flavors of apple and ripe pear as well as more mature suggestions of burnt sugar and caramelized apple tart. Finishes with an edge of acidity and slightly drying hints of nuts and toffee.

The NV Champagne Cuvée Ste-Anne Brut is equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, with 80% from the 2019. The nose is lifted with some slightly volatile aromas that do seem to blow off with time in the glass and give way to notes of passionfruit, grapefruit, and fragrant smoke. It has a lovely texture, with a fine, rounded mousse that finishes with a light savory touch. I think this will benefit from a few more months in bottle before drinking over the next several years.

Based on the 2017 harvest, it is a blend of terroirs from Merfy and Saint Thierry. Surprising woody notes, but above all vegetal, extracted like a great Chartreuse Verte, with a light menthol touch. Pale fruits are macerated, slightly liqueur-like; exotica, candied citrus and medicinal herbs also emerge. On the palate, malt and iodine-tinged peat bring game to mind. This line with its mixed lineage offers finesse and a sandy persistence. A powerful, savory finish, woody, with firm tannins.

Remarkable salinity and umami notes emerge from this Sainte Anne cuvée (80% 2019), still youthful yet with a delicious texture. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier come through with inimitable smoothness. Wait until 2023 to enjoy it at its best.

Chartogne’s NV Brut Cuvee Sainte Anne is an attractive entry-level offering with good mid-palate richness and excellent overall balance. The significant presence of red grapes gives the wine its expansive, broad shouldered frame. The Cuvee Sainte Anne is 47% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay and 14% Pinot Meunier, based on the 2008 vintage, with 28% reserve wine from 2007. Disgorgement date: September 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. The Chartogne-Taillet Champagnes are gorgeous, transparent and focused. This year Alexandre Chartogne has two new single-vineyard wines that reflect his aim to capture the essence of the terroirs in Merfy. Dosage is in the 2-6 grams per liter range, which seems to suit this style very nicely. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300