Paul Jaboulet-Aîné : Domaine de Saint-Pierre 1999

The 1999 Cornas Domaine St.-Pierre was an outstanding effort prior to bottling. The wine is lean, medium-bodied, and closed, with little stuffing, density, or muscle. It is an emaciated example that has not survived the bottling. Although it will last for 10–12 years, it will not provide much pleasure. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Rich, supple and mineral-tasting, with distinctive stone-dust and wet earth character. Complex but ready to drink, this brick-colored beauty unfolds layers of spice, mocha, chocolate, plum and toasted notes, all in an elegant package that floats to a long, seductive finish. Drink now through 2006. 1,665 cases made.

Jaboulet bought this 7.3-acre estate in 1998, and this is the first full vintage. It is a huge wine, with all the true inky blackness and density of a Cornas. Firm, dry and concentrated, it also has generous ripe black plums, a hint of sweet jelly. It makes an excellent mix of the traditional foursquare Cornas style, with modern sophistication.