William Fèvre : Chablis 1er cru "Vaulorent" Domaine 2013

A touch more aromatic than any of the Fèvre Chablis so far: stony, green-fruited, very direct. Direct on the palate too, pure and lively but lacks real depth at premier cru level. (JH)

Splendid nose, floral and aniseed, intense, very ripe, elegant; on the palate, it has the power of a grand cru, remarkable and recommended. It’s the pinnacle of the range’s premier crus this year.

Vaulorent is on the same slope as the Grand Crus, giving it an extra structure. Very ripe and forward, this wine shows both power and the approachability of the vintage. It has plenty of freshness while also showing off yellow fruits and pineapple richness. A more textured, steely, crisp aftertaste will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2018.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent has a peachy, apricot-scented bouquet that is more outgoing and fruit-driven than the Fourchaume, although I do not discern the same level of minerality. The palate is fresh and crisp, rounded in the mouth, but it is missing the tension and the drive of the 2014. Drink over the next 4 to 5 years.