M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2023

Notes of anise, smoke, spring flowers and spices mingled with reduction preface the 2023 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc, a satiny and concentrated, exuberant and vibrant white from Hermitage, with a deep, concentrated, multidimensional core of fruit, racy acids and a fleshy structure that's generous and enveloping, concluding with a long, saline and gently oaky finish. Matured in 400-liter barrels—smaller than the typical 600 liters—this powerful and dense wine demonstrates considerable promise and potential for evolution.

This has the classic Ermite aromatic markers of flint, spice, smoke and salt. Very full-bodied, there's ample flesh here, all wound around an intense, granitic, mineral core, ending with salt and smoke. Huge power, drive, minerality and tension. The vineyards face east around the chapel, the only white vines on the granitic part of Hermitage, apart from Dard & Ribo's.

Just under 0.5 ha and planted with the oldest Marsanne on the estate (including some centenarian vines), on the top of the hill of Hermitage, on poor, shallow granitic soils. Certified organic and biodynamic. Cask sample. The most aromatically intense of the three Ermitage whites in this line-up. More toasty/smoky and with a touch of struck match, but the nutty pear and citrus fruit shines through. Even a hint of clementine and white blossom as it opens. Many-layered aroma. On the palate, this is zesty and scented but not as powerful as I had expected from the aroma. Super-sleek and long with good freshness even though I suspect the acidity is not very high. Deep and long and then lightly salty on the aftertaste. A little more subtle and nuanced than Le Méal and equally intense. So hard to predict the trajectory of these wines, which so often go through a mid-life crisis before they re-emerge in all their complex glory. (JH)

The outstanding 2023 Ermitage Blanc L'Ermite dazzles with flinty nuances, accompanied by fragrant chamomile, lemon flesh, yellow apple, and toasty subtleties. Utterly refreshing, the 2023 delivers mind‑boggling flavor concentration without going over the top. All the elements are perfectly in their place. Medium‑ to full‑bodied and sapid, the 2023 is game on.