Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1995

What sumptuous pleasures await those who purchase either the 1996 or 1995 Pichon-Lalande. It is hard to choose a favorite, although the 1995 is a smoother, more immediately sexy and accessible wine. It is an exquisite example of Pichon-Lalande with the Merlot component giving the wine a coffee/chocolatey/cherry component to go along with the Cabernet Sauvignon's and Cabernet Franc's complex blackberry/cassis fruit. The wine possesses an opaque black/ruby/purple color, and sexy, flamboyant aromatics of pain grille, black fruits, and cedar. Exquisite on the palate, this full-bodied, layered, multidimensional wine should prove to be one of the vintage's most extraordinary success stories. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2020. The 1995/1996 vintages are two of the greatest back to back efforts Pichon-Lalande has ever produced, including the 1982/1983 vintages.

In contrast to the 2015, this vintage has a larger percentage of Merlot in the blend, along with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The colour shows no sign of age, although the nose has less aromatic force than one would have expected. It does show charm and elegance, however. The attack is fresh and limpid, and the moderately concentrated fruit is backed by firm tannins. There's plenty of grip here, but it lacks a little punch and persistence. Still highly enjoyable and finely balanced.

This needs some patience, as at least 2–3 hours of air are needed to help it soften and fill out. Roses, tobacco, scorched earth, cassis, cranberry, and peppery herbs open the nose. There is weight and depth, a touch of herbs, and crisp, crunchy red berries on the palate. The finish comes with a hint of green olives and a bit of dryness. Classic in style, this is a firm, stern version of Pichon, but it manages to avoid some of the severity found in most wines from the vintage. It is ready to go, although it could improve with more time.

96: Barrel sample (18/20): very berry-driven bouquet with lots of power, expansive, blackberries. Rich palate, plenty of suppleness, the tannins are slightly dried out and thus give the structure a fine, firm note, medium-length finish, slightly behind the ’94. 03: Like many great ’95s, the wine starts with a dominant acidity. This setup is currently blocking its evolution and it takes almost an hour for the wine to slowly open. It shows strength, muscle and potential, the sweetness only emerges hesitantly and even the clearly present creaminess is still keeping us waiting. (18/20). 99: The bouquet is compact, very deep yet shows mushroomy-earthy notes. On the palate juicy, plenty of deep Cabernet notes, blackberries, fat and flesh, the tannins are very fine. The wine would be rated very highly in class, but is currently having a hard time. Already two years ago it showed closed and unapproachable, with wild, meaty aromas. Wait! Potential score: 18/20. 02: Brightening wine-red, ruby glimmer at the rim. Open bouquet, shows more spice than fruit, unfortunately also a slight lovage and celery peel tone, soy sauce, bouillon paste. On the palate quite fine, the extract feels a bit firm and ends with dried plum skins and shiitake mushrooms. Despite the oxidation you can still feel tannin reserves. Not an optimal bottle? This one: 16/20. A double magnum from Mäggi Haller’s cellar in June 2005: The bouquet starts slightly green-spicy, chili pepper, pumpernickel bread, toasty notes, accessible, becoming increasingly sweet, sexy. On the palate juicy, elegant, silky texture, beautiful balance, the fruit is still quite present and shows between red to blue berries. If you’re looking for true Pauillac grandeur, you might be inclined to be a bit critical. If you’re after sheer pleasure, this is exactly the right wine right now for uninhibited Pauillac orgies. 09: So sexy, sweet, coconut notes, light pralines, a filigree, particularly fine wine. (18/20). 12: Somehow it resembles the ’82, especially with its fullness and charm. There’s still plenty of blackberry juice in it. Just awesome! (18/20). 14: Magnum. Medium garnet, finely orange rim. Open bouquet, between red to blue berries, a hint of caramel from the barriques gives the nose a sublime fullness. On the palate of good but significantly softer stature than the 1996, in the extract a fine, noble spicy bitterness, which signals the breed of this wine. In any case, this wine is now ready to enjoy! And that’s exactly what we did. (19/20). 16: Medium purple-garnet. The bouquet promises on the one hand, but is incredibly closed. So only very limitedly communicative. On the palate the wine demonstrates rigor and potential, but shows itself quite hard, above all the play on the tongue literally writhes with these firm-peppery tannins. Very difficult to taste. For the next 10 years I’d keep my hands off it and then decant it for a long time. There have already been more accessible bottles – on another occasion. Potential score: 18/20.

Pichon Lalande 1995 has a deep garnet-brick color. It comes bounding out with ready-to-go notes of prunes, fruitcake, and blueberry compote, followed by suggestions of Indian spices, sandalwood, and espresso. The medium to full-bodied palate is jam-packed with flamboyant, expressive black fruit preserves and exotic spice flavors, supported by velvety tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with impressive length. At its peak right now, this vintage has another 10–12 years of cellaring potential.

Logo on the cork: CL Not decanted. Dark colour, medium intensity and showing evolution. Intense nose with vanilla, fruit and smoke. Full, juicy, flavourful palate, finishing a touch tannic and lively as well. Has body, but not the subtlety of the previous one.