René Gabriel
04: Barrel sample: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. 39 hl/ha, only 45% of the harvest selected for the Grand Vin! Very dense color; lots of violet highlights in the garnet. Dreamy, concentrated bouquet; if one looked for parallels between some 2003s and certain ’82s, this is certainly the case here with this Pichon-Lalande; plenty of prunes, blackcurrant and vanilla pods. On the palate, this generous Pauillac sensuality continues, creamy, opulent tannins with a very forceful finish. Will already give pleasure young and certainly over the next fifteen years. Top vinification – super class! (19/20). 05: Sensational, overripe berry bouquet, lots of dried fruit, plums, bananas, light woods and freshly baked bread crust, rich and exuberant on the nose. Creamy, thick palate, with tremendous volume and glycerol, the tannins are round and caressing, warm fruit aromatics, a rolling flow across the tongue, chocolate Bounty in the finish, equipped with a peppery bite in the extract. Continues to evolve toward Pichon-Lalande 1982! 05 on New Year’s Eve, one hour before midnight. Juicy, velvety and sweet, the barrique sweetness is dominant and rules the wine with a bakery-like caramel. 07: Dense, deep purple-ruby. Open, filigreed bouquet, showing blue but also red berries, notes of blackberry, a delicate floral shimmer within, surprisingly accessible. Creamy palate, a lacteous sheen, blackberry yogurt, light caramel and vanilla from the buttery barriques. A Burgundian wine one could call a Chambertin from Pauillac. Perhaps given the vintage you’d expect a bit more drive. Can it keep its rating? (19/20). 11: Elderberry, caramel, round and powerful. Brilliant or just plain awesome? (19/20). 12: Medium garnet, still young but already showing a first hint of maturity at the rim. Fully sweet bouquet, caramel, young Port and stewed plums, cassis almost to excess. On the palate, full-bodied, again with lots of creamy tannins, by basic flavor profile – outside Bordeaux – but a world-class wine. (19/20). 13: Very dark color, still a purplish shimmer in the middle. Full, explosive bouquet, blackberries, blackberry jelly, cassis and butter, rich and almost overflowing. On the palate, the opulence continues in extremis, almost bursting the mouth, an intoxicating Cabernet sweetness radiates from this thing, with a touch of Port on the finish, clearly showing the hot vintage. (19/20). 14: Starts thick on opening and then settles down a bit. I wouldn’t uncork it at the moment. (19/20). 16: Medium-dark garnet, lightening rim. Powerful bouquet, praline tones, hints of dried fruit, complex and very rich on the attack. Quite communicative on the expansive nose. On the palate velvety, creamy; if it were sweet you could call it a Pauillac liqueur, the finish is focused and almost fat with ripe blackberry accents. This atypical wine (like other 2003 Médocs…) is absolutely mouth-filling. So an over-erotic Rubens-Lalande. Already delivering unbridled pleasure. (19/20). 16: Deep purple, dense at the core. The day before (at the Monday tasting) it seemed hot and expansive. Today it appeared reserved and, besides the raisined berry heat, also showed fine slightly green Cabernet notes. It showed depth, but was fairly introverted with little desire to communicate. On the palate velvety, dense and very concentrated. A wine that, by its make-up, belongs to the best 2003s and carries the tendency to become quite a long-lived classic. (19/20). 21: Currently in a stage of uninhibitedness. Wickedly good! (19/20). 21: Dark garnet with a blood-red shimmer at the core. Powerful bouquet with a Port-like glint, dried figs, candied orange peel and caramel. A nasal orgy one wouldn’t necessarily look for blind in the Bordelais. On the palate fat and rich, almost palate-bursting. Brilliant to drink now and still showing further potential. (19/20).