Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2000

Sitting next to my former colleague, Pierre Antoine Rovani, at one of the tastings, he commented that he didn’t like the striking green note in the aromatics of this wine, which I didn’t detect at all, and a subsequent bottle at another tasting did not reveal it either. I do think there is a hint of bay leaf and a meatiness to it. In short, I find this to be a spectacular Pichon Lalande. Dense purple in color, with loads of coffee, mocha, creme de cassis, and chocolate notes, this is a somewhat unusual blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and a whooping 10% Petit Verdot, with a little bit of Cabernet Franc. The Petit Verdot certainly gives the wine more of a tapenade, floral note, which I think can be interpreted by some as herbal. This is a rich, opulent, stunning Pichon Lalande that is beginning to drink beautifully, yet should continue to improve for at least another 10-15 years and last 30 or more years.

Of all the 2000s tasted in the line-up, this was the most evolved, with melted tannins and exotic saffron spice notes. It’s a beautiful wine, very classic Pauillac, full of tertiary hints of truffle, soft menthol and undergrowth—signatures of an older Bordeaux that is wonderful to drink now. It’s probably the most perfect of the five for cracking open over the next few years but may not have the staying power of the others. Interesting to note how much higher the pH is here (3.85) than Leoville (3.5), considering it’s practically next door. 10% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Harvest from 21 September to 9 October.

Lot of currants and berries with a slightly stewed-fruit character. It’s full and round with soft tannins and a fruity finish. Needs to be decanted an hour or two before serving. Succulent wine.

The 2000 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a strong minty bouquet that perhaps slightly overwhelms the terroir expression. I believe this comes from a high proportion of Petit Verdot (14%) that would have probably been eschewed nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with intense black plummy fruit mixed with graphite and sage. This is a muscular though enjoyable Pichon, dense and almost brawny toward the finish, but what is missing is a sense of elegance and precision. Just a touch of greenness shows on the finish (in a positive way). A forceful Pauillac that will benefit from decanting.

Drinking well at this point in life. The nose, with its floral, tobacco, mint leaf and red fruits, expresses itself easily. There is a piquant edge to the red berries on the palate that softens with air, and a peppery, herbal accent to the red fruits in the finish, along with layers of ripe, dark red fruits. 1 hour of air is sufficient to enjoy the wine. Drink from 2023–2040.

Maturing wine-red, slightly dull, with a lightening rim. Vegetal bouquet, a touch of bell pepper and gherkins, showing a conciliatory sweetness. First sip, slightly crumbly tannins, yet the greenish note also comes through here. A bit disappointing.

01: Barrel sample (17/20): On the nose, plenty of floral spice tones, tobacco and green Cabernet traces, but balanced by a conciliatory sweetness likely coming from the barriques, blackcurrant and blackberry; the attack feels full yet surprisingly light. On the palate, lots of substance, soft, velvety at first, again those bell-pepper and Cabernet spice notes, balanced, fine tannin structure, good backbone, but despite nice breadth it lacks a bit of the concentration and power expected from a highly touted vintage. Is that finesse? Or insufficient rigorous selection? Somehow the whole exercise recalls the likewise somewhat superficial Pichon-Lalande 1990! With its sensual allure and its pleasing, popular taste, it will surely win many fans. We will give this wine another chance after bottling and possibly readjust then, though given the lack of power that seems doubtful. Just before bottling in 2002: A rich, opulent, almost creamy wine with intoxicating fruit and also barrique sweetness, lots of drive on the finish. If I give it only 17/20, I’ll rile up the Pichon-Lalande fan club. It’s a winning charmer that doesn’t deliver true Pauillac stature but rather lavish sensuality. And since wine isn’t everything in life, as a man I am a bit dazzled by such lavish sensuality. (18/20). 07: Very dark purple-garnet, ruby rim. A powerhouse bouquet with an indomitable sweetness, Amarena cherries, fine woods, Dominican tobacco, musk, opens only slowly and shows enormous force. Dense, meaty palate, extremely concentrated extract, focused, supple yet still demanding tannins, extreme length. Now showing greater than previously assumed. 10: Nutty, toasty, lots of caramel and café au lait, red plum preserve. Velvety palate, velour-like texture, seems a bit avant-garde, since after 10 years the barrique should no longer be so much to the fore in flavor. Eroticism versus typicity. As a 2000 Bordeaux it should already have a bit more flesh on the bones. For now 17/20. 12: Maturing wine-red, somewhat matte, with a lightening rim. Vegetal bouquet, some bell pepper and gherkins, showing a conciliatory sweetness. Gives initial pleasure on the palate, slightly crumbly tannins, but here too the green note comes through. A bit disappointing given the great vintage’s image.

A blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2000 Pichon Lalande is deep garnet-brick in color. It rolls out of the glass with easy-breezy scents of potpourri, dried cherries, fruit cake, and star anise, with wafts of sandalwood and crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate is in a sweet spot with loads of intermingled dried berries, floral, and exotic spice notes framed by soft, powdery tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and fragrant.

Powerful, complex and distinguished, this is a wine with great aromatic freshness, a silky, deep texture, and a very long yet assured evolution.

In a closed phase, not yet fully expressive and with an aromatic profile dominated by bell pepper notes, Pichon Comtesse is disappointing in this vintage. Far from its usual, increasingly southern-leaning style (very Merlot-driven), rounded and velvety, it comes across as austere, with rigid tannins and a long way from the estate’s trademark sensuality.

Dark color, medium intensity and slightly evolved. A cool nose with a hint of green bell pepper. Fruity palate, but a bit thin. This vegetal note had struck me already during the en primeur tastings. This bottle comes from the same case as the previous one.

Madame de Lencquesaing's estate has produced a stunner in 2000. The perfumes, delicate and sensuous, give it class, style and make it very memorable. It is delicious now, but there are tannins there, and deep, intense fruit flavors, waiting to develop slowly and surely.