René Gabriel
Very often drunk. Never counted among the truly great wines of the 1982 vintage. In 1986, during a blind tasting, it struggled greatly and showed itself in a difficult state, as it obviously fails to harness its potential. The ’83 is better! In 1992, I tasted it three times and still no excitement. Especially considering that I’m the only one who doubts its reputation: dense purple with fine brick-red highlights at the lightening rim. Open, warm nose, dried fruit, smoky note. On the palate, on the one hand wrapped in fat, on the other masses of dry tannins on the tongue. Of all the participants, my score was the lowest. I still maintain that the ’83s from the Margaux area are all greater than the ’82s. With one exception: Château Lascombes! In 1995, in a blind tasting, I immediately guessed the wine: it still seems blocked at the moment, showing none of the charm one would otherwise expect from a Château Margaux. Still, I thought it was developing more and more positively, since in the same year it was one of the big disappointments in a blind tasting of ’82s. 99: Compote-like nose, smelling of raisins and overripe grapes. On the palate, dry tannins, sweet paprika, very concentrated, but it lacks fat and class (18/20). 00: Served blind after Haut-Brion 1982 as an extra: it is certainly developing now—with further bottle age—more charm, yet the fine dryness still prevents top scores. Still, the wine shows a buttery sweetness and further potential. So it may yet improve. Whether it will be a serious competitor to the dramatic 1983 Margaux, I still doubt in the long run!? 01: Just before Christmas, served blind: at first I thought it was a Léoville 1990, because there were caramel, butter and gentle roasted notes. Not particularly thick, rather elegant, a fine wax tone and a delicate, still very young fruit. On the palate, much slimmer than the bombastic ’83, but also delicate here, with mulberries and still very youthful fruit. 03: Seven great wines stood side by side, all served blind. In the first glass, this 1982 Margaux: somehow it didn’t really appeal to me, showing a slightly metallic acidity and the tannins searching for a link with the fat and flesh. After I had tasted all the other wines, I tasted the first wine again. I always do that to give the wine a second chance. The power is there, but after twenty years, this expensive ’82 Margaux (more than twice as expensive as the ’83!!!) still hasn’t found its harmony. For me, the warranty period is over and the wine now loses a point. 05: From magnum, again completely undeveloped and almost reductive. 07: Hardy Rodenstock let the wine decant for two hours and I thus experienced my best Margaux 1982 moment to date. So the wine is finally coming around. It was very complex, sweet and showed notes of roasted almonds. Close to 19/20. I now raise it again to 18/20. 07: Medium-dark, purple at the core, rusty reflections on the rim. Slightly sweet, somehow slender at the beginning, but surprisingly fresh thanks to its herbal and mint notes, also showing fine traces of volatile acidity. Juicy palate, dancing, with medium sweetness, gently dry tannins inside, where one is not sure whether they still point to reserves or merely keep the wine going (17/20). In Spain, René Schmidlin placed this wine next to the 1989 Margaux. And the 1982 had no chance. It is losing more and more fruit and metallic notes are emerging. On the nose, I even found polyester tones. The finish is not “Margaux-sweet” enough to truly belong among the great Bordeaux. Thanks to highly praised Parker points for wine-dumb millionaires with more money than sense. (16/20). 10: Delicate, perfumed nose, showing a lovely sweetness, gently raisined but also with something fresh in the form of cranberries, Dominican tobacco, figs and raisins. On the palate, lots of substance, but unfortunately also certain clunky tannins that do not quite fit a Margaux nor the 1982 vintage. 12: Unfortunately a corked bottle in Ludwigshafen. (18/20). 15: You need nerves of steel. Or a very large dose of valerian drops! In the same 1982 series, the Las-Cases was already corked. Then one could cheer up with the sensational Lynch-Bages and the classic Palmer 1982. And then this: the magnum of Château Margaux was corked. 3000 euros for the tap… 16: Medium garnet with few maturity tones. Begins minerally, flinty touch, candied fruit notes, Darjeeling tea, red prunes and light leather notes. On the palate, frankly sweet impressions on the outside, inside still grippy and showing grainy tannins. In its basic taste, it recalls an aged Maremma wine. The extract is meaty with a core that’s sturdy and peppery, the tannin seems half blocked. Somehow this results in a “more power than juice” variant. Will it still evolve, or retain its somewhat awkward character? If one usually ascribes something feminine to a great Château Margaux, this is the male opposite module. The 1983 is still significantly cheaper on the market and a bit better in the glass! This bottle: 18/20. 17: Gently matured, still quite garnet in the middle, with a fine brick-red shimmer on the rim. The bouquet is open, accessible and exudes great warmth, not raisiny, but showing highly ripe berries in an almost compote-like form. On the second pass, Dominican tobacco. An intoxicating and still delicate bouquet that radiates great nobility. I smelled it for about 10 minutes before taking the first sip. On the palate, lots of substance, creamy, homogeneous and showing an incredible, elevated nonchalance, the finish is focused and endless. It seems slightly slimmer than before and has compensated for this with a heady elegance. This was my best bottle of this wine so far. The 20/20 were within reach. (19/20). 18: By now, the price is more exciting than the wine itself. Yet it is still a truly great Margaux. Of a somewhat schizophrenic nature. The Merlots seem to be raisining, while the Cabernet proportion in the wine still feels rather hard. I was allowed to comment on it and people seemed to like it much more unreservedly than I did. And when you can drink such a rare wine for free, you should also be a bit restrained. (18/20). 21: Far more power than finesse. Lots of raisins, herbs and almost too many additional tannins. He makes up for the missing harmony with arrogance. Long decanting? (18/20). 22: Deep, dark purple, relatively little maturity shimmer. Brilliant bouquet, red berries, cedarwood, light tobacco, fine leather and truffle. It appears surprisingly profound and gradually reveals new aromatic facets. Concentrated extract on the tongue, very persistent and still conveying a certain astringency for further decades. Not a particularly fine Château Margaux. One that is somehow still searching for its harmony, but partly makes up for this with its character (almost). (18/20).