Château Cos d'Estournel 2023

Some herbal touches on the nose with dark chocolate, a little exotic with quite dark ripe blackcurrants. Expressive and alive in the glass, weighty and smooth, a great texture and structure to this, more fleshy and ripe than I was expecting with a mineral undercurrent. Lots going on here, less showy as the fruit subsides and leaves some grippy, powdery tannins that linger. Still serious and needs time to come together, a little quiet and intense on the finish. Not so much overt acidity, more power and structure at this point. First time green harvesting since 2008. 12% press wine, less than in 2022. Shorter maceration in 2023, 23 days compared to 28-30 at cooler temperatures. Ageing 50% new oak. In organic conversion. 53% grand vin, 47% second wine. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.

It takes some coaxing to find the red, purple, and white floral bouquet, but it appears with swirling, along with Asian spice, smoke, tobacco, and licorice. Still, it’s the palate that thrills with its silky, fresh, opulent textures. The fruit shows vivid energy, coupled with a relaxed character, finishing with black, red, and blue fruits enhanced by Indian spices. It reminds me of a modern take on the 1990, with selection. The wine was made from a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. 13% ABV, pH 3.75. The harvest took place from September 12 to September 29. This is the first vintage since 2008 in which the estate carried out green harvesting. The Grand Vin was produced from 53% of the crop. The wine will be approachable early in its life, yet it has the ability to age for decades. Drink from 2029–2060. 96–98 pts.

Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate rim brightening. Fine savoury nuances, a hint of cassis and dark wild berries, hints of clove and cardamom. Juicy, good complexity, red heart cherry at the core, integrated tannins, mineral, lingers, shows some freshness, some nougat on the finish, already developed and accessible.

Step into Cos d'Estournel, with its richness, depths and layers of cocoa bean, liquorice, espresso, chocolate, exceptional chewiness on the tannins, making things fairly serious at this early stage, with a promise of slow-revealed pleasure over the decades ahead. First time doing green harvest in the vineyards since 2008, causing some worries over the late heat waves on already ripening grapes, but they have retained balanced alcohols here, and there is plenty of juice to lift things up on the finish. Harvest September 12 to 29 (last year finished September 22). 50% new oak for ageing, 53% 1st wine. In organic conversion (that began in 2021, but have had to extend after addition of a few more plots to the vineyard).

Score: 94–96. A restrained bouquet with delicate aromas of sap and flowers, like a rose garden after a summer shower, revealing a deeper core of ripe fruit and freshly ground coffee beans. Very floral on the palate, with a top note of peony, underlined by an earthy hint of iris. The wine is silky, gliding into every corner of the mouth, and the tannins are fleshy and flavorful, extending the finish.

The nose is elegant and fresh, with a delicate perfumed character and a lovely multi-layered profile. It shows notes of violet, tonka bean, toasted/powdery nuances and, more subtly, cornflower, joined by hints of strawberry, as well as touches of nutmeg and infusion. The palate is beautifully fresh, mineral and balanced, offering a fresh backbone and juiciness, smoothness and roundness. It reveals notes of juicy/fresh blackberry, vibrant blackcurrant and, more subtly, cornflower, complemented by touches of tonka bean, fresh roast, bright raspberry, as well as fine hints of almost bright cherry and vanilla, infusion, nutmeg and a discreet touch of almost iodized/saline minerality. Good length. The tannins are elegant and velvety. Lovely freshness, precision in intensity and concentration, with a fine infusion-like character. Nicely harmonious and pure, tightening slightly on the finish.

In this ripe vintage, Cos shows remarkable freshness, under 13%, with a thirst‑quenching profile that comes from the quality of its tannins. “This terroir always gives power; we can dare to extract less—it’s a comfort,” notes Dominique Arrangoïts. Licorice, blackcurrant, orange peel, graphite, seamless integration, and depth on the palate are its signature.

Restrained, noble, profound; not a loud wine. It captivates with drive and elegance without ever overflowing; sensational tannin quality, lots of energy, a mineral finish. A ballet dancer of a Cos that will age beautifully.

96-98. Barrel Sample. While the wine has a juicy character, with a black-currant aroma, its main thrust is towards tannins and a dry core. It is a fine wine with restrained richness and is certainly ageworthy.

Offers up showy flavors of crushed loganberry, blackberry and black cherry preserves that feel forward but are soon harnessed by singed cedar, alder and incense accents that catch them from behind. The sweet tobacco–gilded finish flows with generosity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2027 through 2039. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.