Château Calon Ségur 2005

Has a beautiful nose of crushed berry, spices and nutmeg, with a hint of coffee. Then it turns to licorice. Full-bodied, with super-silky tannins and a long finish of vanilla, berry and cinnamon. Beautifully crafted. Best after 2014. 17,500 cases made.

Firm and structured, the Calon-Ségur remains surprisingly muscular. Produced from a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot, all aged in new casks, this shows a bright redcurrant and mint nose with a bit of spice and smoke. The feel on the palate is tannic and firm, perhaps lacking a bit of generosity at this point, but the rich extract suggests that with time it should come around.

Mushroom, truffle, cedar wood, forest floor and spicy cassis are found on the nose. Full-bodied, fresh, crisp and tannic, with a stern, masculine edge to its character, the wine demands at least another decade before it is fun to drink. The wine was produced from a blend of 43% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Clearly a disappointing bottle, the 2005 Château Calon Ségur was mature with a deeper hue as well as notes of darker currants, tobacco, chocolate, and gravelly earth. It shows some firmer, drying tannins, medium body, and a rather foursquare profile. This bottle wasn’t corked or oxidized yet, just never really came together. Let’s hope this was an off bottle.

Medium garnet-ruby, bright. Delicate, very fine bouquet, a subtle touch of cedar, ripe plums, cherry notes, light coffee, gently lactic and thus finely rounded. On the palate, delicate, elegant, with plenty of finesse, gently caressing tannins, beautifully composed, long. Compared with competitors of the same class, perhaps a touch light, without in any way diminishing its appeal. Calon-Ségur produces the same high quality in challenging years as in great vintages.

Medium garnet-ruby, bright. Delicate, very fine bouquet with a light cedar touch, ripe plums, cherry notes, light coffee, gently lactic and thus subtly ample. On the palate, delicate, elegant, with plenty of finesse; the tannins are soft and caressing, beautifully laid out, long. Compared with other heavyweights in the same class, it may seem a bit light, yet this in no way diminishes its appeal. Somehow it seems this estate delivers the same high quality in both difficult and great years. (18/20). 14: A proper Bordeaux. On the one hand refined, on the other showing certain slightly antiquarian, or rather earthy, notes. Often the en primeur sample is always squeaky clean and then a slightly artisanal wine ends up in the bottle. (18/20). 18: Finely spicy, pastry notes, wild raspberries, cherries. On the palate royally astringent and beautifully balanced. A feminine, elegant cru. I almost pulled out the 19 card.

Velvety, dense, fresh, complex bouquet with black berries, plums, graphite, tobacco, currants. Dense, creamy, powerful palate with pronounced dark aromatics, plenty of fine tannins, sweet fruit, long, creamy finish. Can improve further. 18/20 drink - 2036

The classic Gasqueton years, when Calon was for the initiated, and they held on fervently to their insider status. Beautiful ruby red colour, raspberry purée and cocoa dust aromatics, still young, a wonderfully embracing tannic frame, raspberry, blueberry and loganberry fruits, slate-scraping minerality, just a gorgeous wine that bursts from the glass and still has so much more to give. Balanced, mouthwatering, persistent, just at the start of its long, pleasure-filled life, showcasing so much that is wonderful about 2005. Get on board. This is a 2-point higher score than when I last tasted it in April 2021, reflecting that the 2005s are only now beginning to open up. 50% new oak.

It has good breeding, with straightness and firm tannins that should round out. Beautiful development to come.

Logo on the cork: A in a circle (Amorim) Deep, intense color with beautiful dark highlights. Slightly evolved. Very aromatic, refined nose—fruity, subtle, and complex. A floral touch. Precise on the attack, with class in both texture and flavor; the wine melts on the palate, juicy and fragrant, tightening delicately through the finish. Normal length. Ready to drink. If there are bad bottles, there are also good ones—this one, in this case.

The 2005 is a beautiful Calon Ségur, with sweet mocha, black cherry, leathery fruit, medium to full body, attractive purity, a gorgeous texture, and serious nobility, gravitas and density. Drink it over the next 20–30 years, yet it is surprisingly accessible.

Tight and dense still but so integrated and seamless in texture. Aromas of chocolate, hazelnuts, dried spices and currants. Full body, superfine tannins and a texture that is so caressing and beautiful. Drink or hold.