Le Marquis de Calon Ségur 2023

This year with Merlot from parcels of the Grand Vin; restrained, quiet, yet with drive and tension, well‑judged tannins, immensely charming, long. A lot of wine for the money.

Dark fragrance on the nose. A little tight, but it also has an ease about it, with density to the grippy tannins that have a fruity, fleshy aspect as well as a clear wet-stone, slate minerality that lingers on the tongue. A little firm on the finish, but still structured and polished, with a juicy, mouthwatering red-cherry core. It will be nice to taste it once it calms. Not so long, but there’s nice character here nonetheless. 3.6 pH. Aged 17 months, 30% new. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.

A serious Marquis with higher Cabernet Sauvignon than usual, ink, spiced plum, damson, orange peel, chocolate, cocoa bean. Slightly exuberant, silky texture, with a flash of heat. 30% new oak for ageing, 3.6 pH, 45 hl/ha yield.

Score: 91–93. With restrained opulence, the nose tells of black fruits and iris in an elegant bouquet, supported by mineral, almost chalky notes. Concentrated and finely detailed, the palate is pure silk velvet, with freshness and tension, and very juicy substance. Sumptuous.

This has a slightly firm frame of chalk and wet earth guiding a core of lightly steeped black currant and black cherry fruit along. Hints of chestnut and leather enter on the back end, lending a pleasant rusticity. For fans of the style. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2027 through 2037. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.