M. Chapoutier : De l'Orée 2022

This has the characteristic breadth and fat of De l'Orée, with a surprisingly bright and piercing acidic line. Rich, ripe mango, with a touch of pineapple; the alcohol and oak are both surprisingly well balanced for a vintage like 2022. Not the most mineral or fine perhaps, but very good. From 60-year-old vines in the lieu-dit Les Murets at the top of the hill on heavy, water-retaining soils.

Cask sample. Custard apple and crème pâtissière on the nose. The palate is dense and concentrated, with a core of honeysuckle, almond, cashew and stone fruit. It seems a little backward and introverted now, yet has all the potential to evolve over the years. A mineral streak of saline acidity comes through on the finish. (AC)

The 2022 Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée radiates pronounced lemon flesh, yellow apple, cedar and honeysuckle aromas, complemented by linden blossom and jasmine adding a floral complexity. Highly concentrated yet capturing flawless elegance through lifting acidity, the 2022 is an immediately alluring De L'Orée, whose pristine flavors stay long after the wine has left the palate. Yet another magnificent white from Chapoutier that’s totally worth the chase.

Leading off the top Hermitage Blanc, the 2022 Ermitage De L'Orée comes entirely from the limestone soils of the Les Murets lieu-dit and was raised mostly in demi-muids. It’s a fresher, more focused version compared to past vintages, yet it remains a beautifully concentrated, medium- to full-bodied, impressive wine with tons to love. Quince, honeyed stone fruits, crushed stone, and citrus oil emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with ample richness and depth, nicely integrated acidity, and nearly flawless overall balance. It’s likely to gain a touch of weight over the next year or two and should offer around two decades of longevity.

Marsanne in celebration! One of the earliest vintages with a flawless progression, no weather mishaps, harvested early at full ripeness. An exuberant nose of butter-roasted pineapple and lily of the valley, turning exotic with aromas of papaya jam. A fresh, mineral attack; a mouth-coating, fleshy palate with flavors of fresh spices, eucalyptus, and wild mint. Very light grapefruit-pulp bitterness.

Voluptuous and powerful, this white pairs ripe, fleshy fruit with a firming mineral foundation, plus a flinty, smoky edge. Creamy and long on the palate, with a briny oyster-shell and mineral dimension. Smoke, fennel seed, pickled ginger and a pleasing toastiness play out on the bitter-edged finish. Drink now through 2038. 20 cases imported.