Joseph Drouhin : Beaune 1er cru "Clos des Mouches" 2007

The Drouhin 2007 Beaune Clos des Mouches suggests strawberry rhubarb in its sweet-tart alternation, which I find alluring although I would have expected it in a 2008 rather than a 2007. Nutmeg, smoked meats, damp bark, and peat lend interest, and while this is rather opaque when compared with the 2008 rendition, it boasts satisfying persistence of sweet fruit. Perhaps its personality will focus more with time in bottle, but I am betting against that and would plan on following it for 6-8 years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

With a ripe texture, this is developing into a delicious wine. It has richness, allied to the lighter structure of 2007, the acidity and red fruits driving right through the beautifully perfumed wine.

Frank and very fruity nose. Not quite the density of some Premiers Crus – a little raw still. Friendly but not outstanding. (JR)