Château Léoville Las Cases 2002

This is the essence of currants and berries with minerals and flowers. Full-bodied, with silky, refined tannins. Super long and impressive. A beauty. Love it. As it should be. Best after 2008.

Not the easiest summer, although hot weather in September meant that this is a better vintage on the Left Bank where Cabernet was able to ripen – and here 81% of the blend is either Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc. Intense cassis, clear Las Cases signature, slight austerity still with a beautifully silky texture and a crushed mint leaf freshness. This has the understated savoury Cabernet character of the vintage, not as intense as some Las Cases vintages for certain, but this is packed with confident fruit and tannins and it is starting to open up, softening and showing its personality. As it evolves in the glass, the delicate complexity of the structure starts to exert its charm, and gentle truffled liquorice notes sit next to smoked blackberries. I started this as a Coravin sample, but in the end felt that was unfair, because it needs to be opened for a few hours before really starting to show what it's about. Think of this as a great way to access Las Cases at an earlier window than usual, but it is not one to cellar indefinitely. Tasted twice, once at home and once at the château. 5% Petit Verdot completes the blend – the last time that this variety is in the 1st wine of Las Cases, as they were then field grafted over to Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest 28th September to 11th October. 3.49 pH, IPT 70.

Aromas of tobacco box, currants, cedar and mushrooms. It’s medium- to full-bodied with austere tannins and black-chocolate and licorice flavors. So much licorice, in fact. Linear and tight with a racy finish. Delicious now. Why wait?

Lean, classic-styled wine with an austere, firm personality. There is ample fruit but the tannins are rustic and the finish, while loaded with cassis, is on the stern side. If you are seeking more of an old-school leaning styled Bordeaux, this is a good wine for you.

Deeper in colour and presence than the 1995, this jumps into the world of young Las Cases, a reminder that 20 years of age is pretty much the minimum to begin truly drinking and appreciating this wine, as it shifts from monumental to graceful. Black fruit, cassis, blackberry; tannins are tingling and gripping, transmitting power and energy to the mint-leaf, slate, crushed rock and eucalyptus finish. Just revving out of the gate, and as it lingers in the glass, the earthy truffled notes you find in older vintages are just making an appearance, the ghost of Las Cases future. A tightrope walk of concentration and elegance. 50% new oak. Jean-Hubert Delon, owner.