Château de Beaucastel 2020

Beautifully rendered, with a pure display of white peach, Cavaillon melon and mirabelle plum flavors gilded with honeysuckle and acacia from start to finish. A pretty wet stone note gives the finish spine as the fruit and floral notes linger. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Drink now through 2027. 1,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.

At the moment the aromatics are mostly centred around nutty oak and appealing scents of millefeuille pastry. Gently oily in texture, medium- to full-bodied, with a lovely sense of precision. Great freshness, perfect balance, all very tightly wound for now - sure it's lovely, but what we're tasting now is its potential, not the finished item. Will be an outstanding white Beaucastel in time - but wait. 80% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc and Clairette, 10% Piquepoul Blanc, Picardan and Bourboulenc. Part of the blend was matured in 2- and 3-year-old barriques for a year.

Beaucastel have 7 ha of white varieties. This is a blend of 80% Roussanne, 15% Grenache Blanc and 5% Picardan, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Hand-picked in small cases, sorting of the grapes, pneumatic pressing, settling of the juice, fermentation (30% in oak barrels, 70% in tanks) for 8 months. Bottling after 8 months. Much more complex than the Coudoulet and a big step up in concentration. Ripe pears, spices. On the palate, nutty, creamy and embryonically complex. Soft and creamy, with a subtle but sufficient freshness on the finish and great length. The oak is subtle. (JH)

Spring flowers, orange peel, yellow citrus, white peach and spice define the nose. On the palate, the wine is lush, creamy and also interestingly, loaded with fresh, bright, crisp citrus with a touch of peach in the finish. Drink from 2022 - 2032.

Beaucastel's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is 80% Roussanne (half in new oak and half in second-use wood) and 20% other permitted varieties (made in stainless steel). Honeyed pear and pineapple notes dominate the nose, while the palate is full-bodied rich and luscious, yet remains vibrant, refreshing and long on the finish. I find it delicious now and don't see any need to age it, although it will undoubtedly hold together for several years.