Bibi Graetz : Colore 2022

The Bibi Graetz 2022 Colore sources its fruit from high-elevation vineyards in Lamole and from the Olmo Vineyard in Fiesole from vines at 400 meters above sea level. This vintage is a little darker in appearance, and you get more textural power and dark fruit intensity. It's also more open-knit in personality and broadly textured compared to the more vertical 2021 vintage that I prefer. This edition feels accessible and ready for near- and medium-term drinking thanks to the resolved and softened nature of its tannins.

Rich in texture and sapidity, this red exhibits plum, cherry, earth, sanguine and tobacco notes. Turns compact on the finish, where dense, dusty tannins reign. All of the components are here; this just needs time to integrate. Sangiovese. Best from 2027 through 2042. 1,500 cases made, 419 cases imported.

Bibi Graetz is known for wines that defy categorization, that color outside of the lines. The Colore is the apex of this experiment. Indescribable.

Light and transparent, Colore 2022 is a bit less complex in this phase than the 2021 poured alongside, but shows even greater purity of fruit. The aromas evoke sweet raspberries, wild strawberries, violets, bergamot, laurel and iron. Tightly-wound yet seamless, with red fruits full of sucrosity allied to blood orange and a steely tang. Pinpoint tannins underpin the progression while balsamic touches add to its airiness, leading to a long, supple and vibrant finish.

Perfection in sangiovese, with cherry blossoms, chalk, seashells, fine sand and violets on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with focused and poised tannins that are wonderfully integrated and rather endless. Crunchy and chewy at the end. Such presence. You want to spend time with this wine. A top selection from two vineyards Olmo and one in the village of Chianti Classico in Lamole, 60 and 88 years old, respectively. This is a wine that gives great pleasure now, but will be even better in two or three years.

100% Sangiovese from high-elevation vineyards (Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena) with >70-year-old bush vines and vines trained on Guyot, grown on galestro and clay soils. Spontaneous fermentation in open barriques for the small parcels and in 50-hl oak casks and stainless steel for the larger plots with three punchdowns daily. After the alcoholic fermentation had finished, the wine was racked off into old barriques and 50-hl casks where it went through malolactic conversion. The wine was aged in casks for 18 months before bottling. Mid to deep ruby. Takes its time to open up and I would decant this because you are going to finish the bottle before you know it, and the youthful nose with peppery cherry and raspberry notes then really comes into its own. Juicy, rich but not heavy or sweet red fruit on the palate with soft bitter-sweet tannins that need more time to integrate into the wine. Hedonistic. (WS)

Remarkably pretty, the 2022 Colore lifts from the glass with a bouquet of dusty violet and lavender tones complementing crushed blackberries as a mix of exotic spice and stone dust adds contrast. This is a more lifted and feminine interpretation, silken in feel with medium-bodied weight. Depths of mineral-infused wild berry fruits slowly add grippy traction toward the close. The 2022 finishes staining and long, with a blue and purple floral resonance. Hints of bitter blackberry tug at the cheeks.

Clear, very dense ruby. Very fine and inviting nose, classic Sangiovese fruit of dark cherry, then fine tobacco, plus blackberry and roses. Firm, gripping tannins on the palate, hearty and with good tension, has substance and depth, with pronounced earthy notes on the finish.