Gérard Bertrand : Château La Sauvageonne "Grand Vin" 2019

A barrel-fermented blend of Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Viognier and Roussanne, the 2019 Languedoc Blanc Chateau la Sauvageonne Grand Vin is honeyed and subtly toasty on the nose, with those elements framing ripe pears and melon. There's a hint of peppery spice from the Viognier too. Medium to full-bodied, this rich but dry white wine is nicely balanced, in a big, lush way. I'd opt for drinking it young, while the fruit is still ascendant. Certified organic and biodynamic.

Certified organic and biodynamic. Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Viognier, Roussanne. Aged on fine lees with bâtonnage in new barrels for six months. Why do all these Bertrand wines come in such heavy bottles? It is at complete odds with their much-flaunted organic and biodynamic credentials. Smells like fresh-pressed apples and sage and freshly planed sandalwood. Trips across the palate in tap-dancing shoes, staccato bright and emphatic, every edge and every movement crisply defined. Ripe peachy fruit on the outside, acacia blossom inside, wrapped around a steely stony spine. A white-pepper and wasabi-powder lift through the nose towards the end. Tastes lighter than its 14.5% alcohol. But too young right now. (TC)Retasted 28/03/2023 Still very fresh, still with that powdery white-pepper and wasabi lift. Very peachy, touch of salted caramel. Starting to drink just right about now. (TC)

In the Terrasses du Larzac, La Sauvageonne delivers a white wine with stone-fruit notes and an enveloping palate, finishing with a toasted note.