René Gabriel
04: Barrel sample: This is the first time I’ve awarded a barrel sample of Lafite the maximum score. This wine of the century is made up of the following components: 86% Cabernet Sauvignon (harvested from September 15 to 24), 9% Merlot (harvested from September 8 to 12), 3% Cabernet Franc (harvested on September 16) and 2% Petit Verdot (harvested on September 16 and 23). It showed the deepest color of all three Domaine wines presented (Carruades & Duhart); very dark garnet with black highlights. Pure black-berried, smoky, truffle, teakwood, Darjeeling – I have never experienced a Lafite with such nasal concentration and depth! On the palate, perfect, showing a dreamy Cabernet sweetness within the mouth-filling astringency, ripe, slightly dried plum skins, dried bananas, a hint of coconut and dark pralines, radiating that immense concentration again on the long finish. Could this be one of the very best Lafites I have ever tasted? In any case, in a few decades this wine will offer an experience perhaps akin to what the ’59 does today. (20/20). 06: In December at the Coburg in Vienna. Restrained bouquet, plenty of smoke, fine woods, truffle, noble and lofty. On the palate, compact, lots of peppery sweetness in the tannins, with plenty of cassis at the core, concentrated finish. A powerhouse Lafite at the very highest level. 08: Deep, dark purple with violet sheen. Comfortingly warm Cabernet terroir bouquet, umami and malt notes, leather, tobacco, currants and black berries, expansive with nobility. On the palate, sweet, full, showing lots of charm, dark pralines, cassis and Tahitian vanilla pods, malty finish with hints of rum, simply intoxicating and full of harmony! Illogically, already offering a first wave of pleasure. Or is it just a temporary high? At its core, clearly a wine of the century. Current rating: 19/20. Potential: 20/20. 13: Deep ruby-garnet with violet highlights. The nose is both beguiling and soothing, roasted almonds, café au lait, cassis, Damassine plums, a floral shimmer with an intoxicating blossom perfume. On the palate, infinitely many nuances, the tannins are tender and melt away over the elegant, very long palate flow. It was unquestionably the very best wine of this unforgettable Frutt wine weekend. I set the bottle aside for photographing and also… to pour myself a lovely second sip. Thank you Ruedi. With this experience you’ve set the bar quite high for the still young wine year. (20/20). 17: Magnum. The color is almost black. That may also be because – thanks to the magnum – there was quite a lot of wine in the Gabriel Gold glass. The nose releases a lot of power, smoke, licorice, pumpernickel, ribwort plantain. If Lafite hadn’t been on the label, I would have pegged it as Latour on the nose. On the palate, perfect, showing a mix of concentration and finesse, ground black pepper, vanilla pods, enormously concentrated extract, gigantic length. A dramatic wine that one might not necessarily classify as a great Lafite. Nor a typical Pauillac and certainly not a Bordeaux. But it definitely deserves one distinction: world-class! (20/20). 18: Medium-dark garnet, gently lightening at the rim, but showing no maturity tones yet. The bouquet is still black-berried and thus very fruity; at the same time, fine first terroir spice notes push in as cedar nuances and summer truffles into the multi-layered nose. It shows great olfactory stature. On the palate, elegant, very fine, accompanied by a black-berried fruit (blackberries and cassis). When you slurp it, it develops the autochthonous Lafite perfume. The finish is long and very concentrated and thus impressively persistent. Compared to other 2003s, it seems almost a little discreet at first. For a Lafite, however, this is not a flaw but a classic advantage. I was blown away during the tasting and couldn’t bring myself to spit this wine out. Well swallowed is somehow also spat! Lifetime guarantee: 40 years+. (20/20). 20: Deep garnet-purple, dense in the middle. From the very first nasal contact, this beautiful Pauillac delivers an enormously sweet parade. Sandalwood, fairground almonds, sultanas, light malt, caramel and a fruit presentation from blue to black berries. Due to the high ripeness of the grapes, you also find raisins and an almost buttery feel. The palate is Burgundian. Inside you notice the concentration but also the heat of this “tropical” Bordeaux year. The finish is beguiling and extremely sweet. An intoxicating, drug-like Lafite. Here you don’t quite know whether to wait. It can’t be such a bad idea, since it shows many parallels to its own 1959. (20/20). 21: Deep wine-red with a black core. Stunning power bouquet; cassis, licorice, smoke, truffle, fine woods and Dominican tobacco. On the second approach, it seems perfumed and shows a remaining hint of coconut, vanilla and sandalwood. Already on the nose a moving experience. I treated myself to several “rhino inhalations” before bringing the wine to the palate. On the palate, sheer complexity, balanced, already quite charming and yet still demanding astringency. The balance is superb. The finish, which tastes of dark caramel, rock candy, black berries and Earl Grey, echoes on endlessly. A Pauillac delicacy with juice and power. Beguiling, expansive, unforgettable. The day after, I had the chance to have Lafite 1959 in the glass. I believe it will resemble it quite closely at some point. When this might happen seems beyond my life expectancy. (20/20). 22: Deep purple with black highlights. Astonishingly sweet bouquet. Initially compote-like with manifold fruit aromas such as cherries, plums, honey, Málaga raisins, coconut and gianduja chocolate. An olfactory intoxication like no other. On the one hand showing the typically hot 2003 aromas. On the other hand, one hopes for what is to come that still lies beneath. On the palate, it flows over the tongue like a Chambertin, soft, silky and elegantly full. The finish gathers with dramatic complexity and impressive length. Has there ever been more Pauillac eroticism in the glass? With Mouton, certainly often. But with Lafite – in this brilliant form – never yet! (20/20).