Krug 2008

Since I reviewed the Krug 2008 Brut last year, I have drunk the wine on five or six occasions, but I still struggle to understand it. This bottle, tasted at the cellars in Reims, was among the best I've encountered to date; but between the chiseled muscularity of the Clos du Mesnil and the complexity and plenitude of the 164ème Édition of Grande Cuvée, the vintage itself simply seems less compelling and complete. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, orange zest, dried white flowers and a discreet hint of buttered toast, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and saline, with a pretty pinpoint mousse and a tightly wound core. Will it unfurl with time to reveal more mid-palate volume and authority, or will it remain a comparatively lean, understated vintage for Krug? As ever, time will tell, and given the house's track record I certainly wouldn't be surprised to see the 2008 take flight with more time on cork.

There’s a supernova of sensation with each sip of this powerful version, starting with the vivid streak of mouthwatering acidity that drives a rich panoply of ripe black currant, mandarin orange peel and grilled nut flavors, accented by hints of candied ginger, briny oyster shell, verbena and ground cardamom. This burns bright from start to finish, yet its fine integration and lovely, raw silk–like mousse pull it all together into a seamless, vibrant package. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Disgorged autumn 2019. Drink now through 2038.

Krug 2008 is a monumental Champagne—too young to drink, yet already a great pleasure. The wine shows tightly wound aromas of lemon peel, marzipan, brioche, and fresh linden flowers. The texture is lively and bright, brimming with energy, with the substance to age for decades. Interestingly, Pinot Noir is only barely dominant in this vintage at 53%, with 25% Meunier and 22% Chardonnay. The high percentage of Meunier accentuates the wine’s floral character. After cask fermentation, the wine spent 12 years on the lees. I wouldn’t open it for another five years, and it should drink well for at least 40 years after that.

This is very structured and framed with an almost red sensibility. Very phenolic. Full-bodied, wound tight like a ball with so much going on. Very pinot-like. Mineral and stony. Shell and stone. Iodine. Vinous. The bubbles just fade into the finish of the wine, which goes on for minutes. Turns to toffee and salted caramel with time in the glass. One for the cellar. Great length. Blend of 53% pinot noir, 25% pinot meunier, 22% chardonnay. Disgorged at the beginning of 2020. Drink or hold.

A profile marked by racy Pinots combining maturity and freshness. The nose is still young and restrained at first.

A vintage Champagne from this producer is rare. But 2008 was a great year in Champagne and that shows in this intense, still amazingly young wine. Freshness works with the richness to give concentration, density and the sure-fire possibility of long-term aging. So drink now, but the Champagne will last for many years.